Backstage at Stella Jean – Milan Fashion Week AW 16

The senior artist in charge of the makeup look at Stella Jean was Michele Magnani whose work I adore. The look was inspired by a fusion of cultures, namely Italian and African – the idea that so many migrants use Italy as a stepping stone into other places. 
I really liked the makeup look for this show, an interesting mix of products were used – half of which are sadly not yet available to buy. The way it works is that once a product is developed, it is given to the backstage makeup artists team to test and see the way it performs. Based on feedback received, these products are tweaked and eventually put into production. Michele described the look as simple and fresh, something that resonated with the new generations and new makeup trends in fashion.

I spoke to Michele about the skin and the foundation used and he expressed his love for one of Mac’s most recent foundations – the WaterWeight, which over the last year has actually taken place of honour in my makeup bag. He said his favourite brush to apply said foundation is the small stippling brush -188 Small Duo Fibre Face Brush 
The eyes, just like at Moschino were glossy – an upcoming trend for next Winter it seems and he used both a cream pinky purple eyeshadow (Just Maybe – from a palette that is not yet available for sale) and the eye gloss lightly taupe layered over the shadow to achieve the effect. He described the look as modern and sexy and something that can be worn both night and day and for any season. He also spoke about current makeup trends nowadays abandoning the idea of using certain colours in Winter and others in summer…we should mix and match and use anything whenever. A lot of mascara (Extreme Dimensions) was used to achieve an imperfect, sort of clumpy effect on lashes. It was not applied in the traditional method but with the end of the wand and a small fan brush.
No blush was used and instead just a highlighter stick (again not yet available to buy but called ‘Something doesn’t Give‘) on the cheekbones with mineralize skinfinish powder applied on top. He described the highlighter as wonderfully creamy without being oily and really easy to blend.
For the lips, he used a plum cream lipstick, high drama retro matte layered over in the middle and the cream lipstick again 


Photos by KURT PARIS

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